Thursday 10 September 2020: Lynda talked to us fitting for the changing body and the 3 main alterations she’s helped students with in her workshops. She refers to a handy Threads article she wrote containing the details for getting a sleeve head to fit you well. This article is in Threads issue 189 in February/March 2017 so if you have a subscription, go grab this article.
Lynda Maynard has enjoyed a 35 year career that highlights a wide array of experience in varying contexts of working with fashion. She’s brought a passion for fashion to countless classrooms spanning the past 12 years and, during that time, served a number of community colleges while simultaneously leading workshops for various fabric stores looking for new and innovative ways of catering to their growing clientele. Her specific areas of expertise include topics of couture sewing techniques, fitting, and pattern drafting. Coursework developed and taught includes Moulage (French Pattern Drafting), Pant Draft, Copying Ready-to-Wear, Lingerie, Working With Difficult Fabrics, and numerous other offerings.
Lynda talks through where fit changes should be made on your muslin. The photos below were supplied by Lynda for us to share with you. The images below show the upper back adjustment.
These pictures also show the muslin with the wide seam allowances and horizontal balance lines. Close up, you’ll see these lines are sewn/basted onto the calico. The calico fabric is not pre-washed. You’ll hear why in the podcast.
Stay stitch opening such as necklines and armholes.
Make sure your stitch on the seam lines too so you know where the changes need to be made. The seam lines on the final pattern pieces will also allow you to pattern-match like a pro.
As your body changes over time, there are 3 alterations that are expected – the rounded upper back, the waistline expands and the shoulders rotate forward.