Plus-size patternmaking

Tuesday 7 April 2026: Gabby Brown the co-author of “Plus Size Pattern Making for Womenswear” with Leila Kelleher is today’s podcast guest.

Gabby discussed how the book, which sold out its first print run of 850 copies within two weeks, provides the first comprehensive textbook on plus-size pattern making for fashion designers.

The book includes techniques, tools, and patterns for creating clothing in various plus-size ranges, along with guidance on professional fitting practices and respectful terminology.

Gabby explained she and Leila developed the book for three main audiences:
home sewists,
industry professionals, and
students, with plans to tour colleges and present workshops to educators.

The book features a capsule collection designed for model Martha in sizes 1X and 4X, with additional content on adaptive sewing and body diversity.

Description

From the publisher Bloomsbury: An essential guide to patternmaking for plus-size fashion, and the specialized skills, shapes, and techniques required to achieve a great fit and make beautiful clothing that truly understands plus-size bodies.

Featuring all the major block types for contemporary apparel – from fitted bodices to T-shirts, sleeve variations to swimwear – and packed with clear illustrations and step-by-step guidance, Brown and Kelleher guide you through:

– drafting a complete set of plus-size blocks suitable for use with models and clients
– industry plus-size fit forms
– adapting existing designs for plus sizes
– practical skills for respectful measuring, fitting, and working with larger bodies.

Covering every step of the pattern-drafting process, from developing a size chart, to considering mobility and wearing ease, to adapting smaller dress forms for use with plus-sizes, Plus-Size Patternmaking for Womenswear is an essential textbook for all modern fashion and apparel students.

Online resources available for download:
– Instructor resources, including class presentation slides
– Sample size charts, blank size chart templates, and ease chart
– Instructions for calculating required measurements for block drafting section
– Standard measurements used in block drafting
– A collection of plus size croquis in different sizes and poses

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